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Conversion of  Taylor Dunn electric burden carrier to gasoline hydrostatic drive with instant reversing

starting point- well used unit with cab.  Here the rear axle has been removed and electrics all taken out, and motor with chain drive housing removed from rear axle  These use an inverted narrowed ford 8" rear axle.  The pinion carrier (orange, see below) must be changed  from the taylor dunn part to a regular one to allow bolting the drive motor mount to the axle housing on the same bolts, and some models only have a band brake on the original driveshaft so you will need to add OEM Taylor Dunn brakes if there are none.  Parking brake is an issue, I used a pushbutton drag racing line lock device that didn't really work very well.

Here's the 18hp kohler command motor salvaged from a generator.  The motor adapter, lovejoy couplings hydraulic hoses, reservoir and White brand hydrostatic pump came from Surplus Center.  The pump is the same one used  (in pairs) on Dixie Chopper zero turn mowers.  Motor mount is just a flat plate welded in.  There is no torque on the motor, and you are free to mount it pretty much anywhere because it only needs hoses and cables run to it, no driveshaft worries.

Mount for hydraulic motor adapter to rear axle before welding.  As there is another lovejoy coupler inside alignment is not super critical.  Used the  hard plastic lovejoy cushions rather than rubber as they are rated for higher torque. Mount tube is drilled to allow tightening the lovejoy setscrews, and the axle end flange has a hole large enough so the lovejoy to shaft adapter flange I made can fit thru.  The large hole in the mount axle end flange registers on the circle that Ford conveniently machined on the orange pinion bearing carrier, which you can see here. This is nice because all you have to do is unbolt the unit and the lovejoy coupler will slide apart, no need to undo any shaft setscrews or flange bolts.inside the tube.

Here you can see the standard SAE mount hydraulic motor mounted on the tube and axle.  The tank is for fuel, and the bracket on top of the hydrostatic now has a pivoting lever for the pump control cables that go to the control stick in the cab.

Installation of hydraulic lines, filter  mounting block, hydraulic oil reservoir, electric start battery& stock Kohler exhaust system.  I found a hydraulic schematic for the hydro pumps on Dixie Chopper's website.  I did not install an oil cooler because this was really designed for short runs with frequent reversing.  It also has a pretty good size reservoir (around 5 gal) and the oil didn't get too hot when I was using it :

Another view of the hoses, and factory Taylor Dunn disc brakes.  The tiny disks are welded to the axles, and the calipers are small enough to fit inside standard (although 5 bolt) golf cart wheels  I had to get a new master cylinder as well.  The brake stuff was not cheap.


Here I've welded a  5" tall or so riser flange to raise the entire bed area so it clears the engine and exhaust.  The white panel in the center is just a reinforcing center support for the phenolic flat bed to be installed on top.  I also welded some stainless steel tubing for the exhaust to exit the side of the raised body and put some panels in for an under bed rear storage space.  Another phenolic panel up against the rear of the cab has locating holes for corresponding pins in the bed.  You slide the bed panel forward into the holes and latch it at the rear, with a car door latching mechanism controlled by a lever sticking out the rear  If I was to do this again I'd probably do aluminum treadplate on hinges with gas springs, or maybe a  hydraulic side dump with a valve that would allow use of the hydro pump.  You want the bed to overhang the body to keep water out, the factory did not do this and had an inset plywood rear deck.

Control lever and throttle on the stick:  This turned out to not be the ideal setup.  Although it worked well for controlling the pump, its a little hard to steer this machine with one hand on the wheel and one on the stick in tight areas at low speed, which is what I made this for, Next time I would use a heel toe pivot pedal and push pull cable hand set throttle like a hydrostatic farm tractor, but that would have been quite a bit more work & my pump control cables were too short.  The throttle cable was not yet run. switches on the newly made instrument panel are for lights, wipers and ignition key switch  A straight pull throttle would also make for a neater installation.  The e-brake does nothing. Time for paint


exhaust heat shield

Ready to go.  Not ideal for turf, not much ground clearance.  Would have been nice if it had the factory doors

Data plate says 3000lb capacity.  If I recall correctly I took a leaf out of the rear spring- after all, no longer carrying 480lbs of batteries around.  Sold the factory charger, motor and solenoid panel for good money which paid for some of the parts, and ended up selling the whole thing after getting too good an offer to keep it.  The first Char-Lynn hydraulic motor was too small a displacement, so the unit went  fast but did not have enough torque.  I had sized the motor based on the displacement of the pump, rear axle gear ratio, tire size and desired working speed but it was not ideal.  I swapped hydraulic motors for the next larger one (same mounting bolt pattern, 15 minute job) and it was perfect, enough to spin the tires on the loading ramp when it was sold.  
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